'How Tos' and Easy Bag Projects (at the bottom of this page) to get you started.
How to apply Magnetic Snap Closures (Apply before sewing your lining and outer together). - It’s a good idea to reinforce the area of fabric (wrong side) where you are going to apply the snaps with a small square of Fusible Interfacing.
- Mark the both the areas where you want place the snaps.
- Make two very small slits into your markings (a stitch ripper is perfect for this job).
- Push the prongs into the right side of your fabric.
- Slip one of the thin metal discs over the prongs on the wrong side of the snap and then push the prongs down flat (away from each other) with your thumb.
- Repeat steps 1-5 with the other half of the snap
How to apply Bag Feet (Apply before sewing your lining and outer together). Mark each of the 4 areas where you want to place your bag feet (not too close to the ends of the corners, you don’t want the feet to be too visible). Make two very small slits into your markings (a stitch ripper is perfect for this job). Push the prongs into the right side of your fabric. Push the prongs down flat (away from each other) with your thumb. Repeat steps 1-4 with the remaining feet.
How to apply fabric to Purse Frames (which do not have sewing holes).
How to use Internal Flex Frames See our blog for easy step-by-step instructions with pics and a pattern.
How to use Internal Hex Open Frames (not to be confused with 'Flex' frames) Making a purse with a Hex Opening frame is much like making a bag with an elasticated or drawstring opening. Drawstring bags have a casing (fabric tube) sewn into the opening of the bag through which the cord or elastic is threaded though; for Hex Opening frame purses/bags we just substitute the cord for a Hex Frame - easy! Sew the purse exterior and purse lining to your desired size ensuring that the width of the purse will be at least 1.5" (4cm) wider, than the frame itself (it can be even wider if you wish). Place the lining bag into the exterior and sew a casing (fabric tube) large enough to accommodate the flex frame by folding down the top edges of the entire purse down (just as if you were making a drawstring bag) except we are going to leave both sides of the casing open. The Hex frame comes in 4 parts; 2 frame halves, and 2 hinge pins. Assemble one of the hinges of the frame by bringing the two frame halves together (pliers make this bit easier) to bring the hinges together and inserting one of the pins into the hinge. Insert the frame into the casing (so that the unhinged ends go in first) through one of the open sides. Push the frame through until the unhinged ends are exposed at the other side. Make up the hinge on the other end of the frame as before. Sew both of the open edges of the casing closed.
How to felt knitted bags by Nora J. Bellows; creator of Noni Bag Patterns. Felting is a very satisfying (and addictive!) way of creating and adding fabulous structure, texture and strength to your knitted bags, and with a little practice it is not at all difficult. Fibre artist Nora describes how (these instructions are also found on all of her patterns). Using a Top-Loading Washer I recommend felting your bag in a top-loading washer that is set on the smallest load size and the hottest water setting. Put bags in lingerie bags or zippered pillow protectors (to better protect your washer from felt lint and you bags from pulling out of shape). Add a small---very small--amount of laundry detergent to the wash. Rather than letting the bag go through multiple cycles, turn back the dial and let the bag agitate until it is a thick felt. You will want to check it often, making sure you work out any kinks that look as though they are settling in. Once the bag is the size and thickness you want, or the measurements listed here, rinse it by hand, and then put it back in the washer to spin dry. Agitating it further at this point will also possibly shrink it further.
Using a Front-Loading Washer As above but also...see below. To speed up the process of felting (and gain a nicer felt): add some tennis balls, sports shoes, and old blue jeans to your wash to increase the agitation or friction that your woolies have to contend with. And use that little timer to check your felt often, careful to pull out any creases that look as though they are setting in, and to help the curl at the top of your bag to get straight.
Blocking Your Felted Bag At the conclusion of the washer cycle, or your furious plunging, dry the bag as best you can and then go about blocking it: stretch the bag so that its height and width are even all the way around. You can stuff the bag with newspaper, plastic bags, or anything else at hand, such as a rolled up dry towel or even skeins of yarn you might have around. You may want to use a small plate or bowl to give circular bottoms shape, or a box to help a square or rectangular bag develop or keep its crisp shape. I have, on occasion put same sized books in thick plastic bags and then put them in the bag until it dries. Don’t, of course, put naked books in your wet bag!
Felting Flowers Assemble your flowers before you felt them! Some have complained that their flowers are rather “flat” looking, especially the Camellias. This is all in the assembly and blocking. If you want your camellia petals to have nice cup shapes, you have to achieve this in the assembly process. So, use your tapestry needle and yarn to get the cup shaping. If your flower looks rather flat when you sew it together, I will look even flatter after going through the washer. There is nothing special in the felting of flowers. I tend to just throw them in with like colored felting and check them (and everything else) to see if it is the density felt I like (I like a really dense felt). Once out of the washer, you will want to pay special attention to blocking. As I have emphasized in various places, things are how they are blocked. So, if you want your flowers to have a rather “real-ish” look to them, that is, if you want their petals to look a little this way and that, then make sure you block them to look that way. I pull at the petals with my fingers to emphasize the cup shape of camellias, the soft curling ends of the spider chrysanthemum, and the casual-ness of the unfurling rose, and then I employ all sorts of kitchen things to get the shape I want: Salt shakers prop up the petals of camellias. Bowls hold the softly curling petals of the spider chrysanthemum. Unfurling roses are piled one next to another to make one look a bit squashy, another just opening, another open only on one side. And Mandeville vine flowers I sometime hang from the knobs of cabinets in order to make them look as though they have only just opened. Others I dry with their faces on the counter, their long trumpets standing up like elfin hats in order to give them that happy, completely unfurled appearance. I hope you enjoy Noni flowers as much as I have!
Felting I-Cords I suggest that you felt your I-cords coiled up in small lingerie bags. If left to their own devices (that is, outside of any bag), I-cords will tend to tie themselves up on pretzel-like knots. This tendency to tie themselves up in knots makes for not so great looking uneven, unfelted spots. If you don’t have a very small lingerie bag, just tie a knot in your existing lingerie bag to make it small. Pull out long and straight to block. If felting two separate I-cords for handles, pull them to the same length, and then dry them flat and strait on a kitchen counter or other water resistant surface.
Easy Bag Making Projects We've put together some projects to help inspire you. These bags are easy to make, they don’t even need patterns. If you’ve never made a bag before we suggest you start with the Handy Tote Bag. If you’ve done a bit of sewing before than both of the bags should be a breeze. You can of course embellish these bags in any way that takes your fancy. We hope you find these instructions helpful! To view the instructions click on the project title. Handy Tote Bag. Finished bag dimensions (approx); 12” (31cm) wide, and 14” (36cm) tall. This bag is super quick and easy to make and it’s an ideal as a first sewing project. It’s a basic tote bag which has more uses than could ever be listed here. Feel free to make the bag in your chosen size or follow our measurements. Click on the orange coloured items to buy.
You will need: - 2 rectangles of Fabric 13” (33cm) x 15” (38cm) for the bag outer (shell) and matching thread. Purchase at least 0.5 yrd of fabric per bag.
- 4 squares of Fabric 6” (15cm) x 6” (15cm) for the handle loops.
- 2 rectangles of Firm Fusible Interfacing 13” (33cm) x 15” (38cm) for the shell. Purchase at least 0.5 yrd of interfacing per bag.
- 2 squares of Firm Fusible Interfacing 1” (3cm) x 1” (3cm).
- 2 rectangles of Fabric 13” (33cm) x 15” (38cm) for the lining. Purchase at least 0.5 yrd of fabric per bag.
- 1 pair of 4.5” (11cm) x 6” (15cm) Rattan D Shaped Handles.
- 1 set of Magnetic Snaps.
To view the instructions click on the project title. Basket Style Handbag. Finished Bag Dimensions (approx): 13” (33cm) wide, 9” (23 cm) tall, and 4” (10cm) deep. This lovely square bottomed bag looks so professional yet it is not difficult to construct. Don’t be put off by the number of steps, none of them are tricky or time consuming! The use of a craft weight sew-in interlining in the bag’s construction makes the bag durable and stand up on its own. Combine that with bag’s metal accessories and you will have friends asking you where you bought that gorgeous bag from! This would make a great Bag Kit present for yourself or a friend. The cost of all the items below is around £20.00; which is a steal for handbag which will be completely unique! To see gorgeous Basket Style Handbags which have been made by our customers click here, here, and here. Click on the orange coloured items to buy.
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